As much as I was looking forward to visiting Varanasi, my trip didn’t begin on the best note. My train from Delhi was delayed by over nine hours, and the only thought running through my mind was, “Maybe this is the universe’s sign that it’s not meant to be.”
But when I finally arrived at Local Lok the next morning, I was welcomed with warmth that instantly dissolved the fatigue. Even after years of solo travel, the uncertainty of a new place still brings a mix of excitement and anxious curiosity for me. Having travelled across India all my life, I can say with certainty that not every host offers the same level of genuine hospitality. Local Lok did.
During the ten days I spent there, I had the pleasure of getting to know Veronica, the Local Lok team, and Ananya’s visit was a pleasant surprise. Tucked away in the gallis (streets) of Shivpur, the property offered a sense of calm that stood in stark contrast to the bustling ghats of Varanasi. Walking through those lanes, watching locals go about their daily routines, I slowly began to feel like I was one of them.
Staying for that long meant I wasn’t rushing to tick places off a list. Instead, I allowed Varanasi to reveal itself to me, at its own pace. I wasn’t there to find purpose; I was there to experience Banaras beyond the postcards — in the suburbs, in conversations, in everyday life.
Some of my favourite moments came from simple interactions, especially with my Rapido bike riders, who became unexpected storytellers. The highlight, though, was when a boatman asked if I was a local. Perhaps my Banarasi accent had started to show.
Now that I’m back and on to my next adventure, Local Lok and Varanasi hold a special place in my heart — not because I returned home transformed, but because of the people I met along the way.
Maybe our paths will cross again.
Until then,
Vaishnavi Karnam